Background
While working on Front Entry Trellis Project, I needed to make spare parts. The trellis part is somewhat intricate requiring special jigs for cutting the angles and holes. I wanted spare parts to make sure I did not have to redo all the setup work to create new ones should something go wrong. That trellis is a repeating pattern of the same design three times. I wound up with enough spare pieces to almost make an entire fourth pattern. Once I was done with that, I started thinking about ways I might use that same pattern. The idea I came up with was to create a planter with the trellis on the back.
Frame Construction
A mortise and tenon joint is among the strongest. Since I had previously invested in a mortise machine, I went with that as the main frame's joinery.
Because the legs are that that thick and have tenons coming in two sides, the motises intersected. This meant I would need to bevel the tenons so they did not obstruct each other.
The frame wood is Ipe which is great as a long lasting outdoor wood. It is very dense and a little oily. However, it is those same attributes that make it not great for gluing. Usually, a glued mortise and tenon joint is incredibly strong. Since this was Ipe wood and in an outdoor environment, I did not want to rely on glue, so I chose to put screws into the mortise to hold in the tenons.
Trellis Fitting
I had already constructed the (fourth) trellis part when doing the Front Entry Trellis Project. My first idea was to mount it so that the full trellis design was visible. Two issue with that:
- This made the trellis unwieldy high.
- It did not allow a good way to connect to the planter frame.
I opted to lower it and that solved both problems. I could attached the trellis at both the top and bottom of the planter base.
Planter Sides and Bottom
To match the motif of the deck furniture I built (see Deck Furniture Project), I combined the Ipe frame and trellis with cedar boards for the planter sides and bottom. There was some tricky geometry from the constraint that I wanted the inside of the planter to not have any ridges. To make the cedar boards sit between the Ipe frame pieces and be flush inside, I needed to saw some slots and add small rabbets to the cedar boards.
Finishing
Cedar is a good, but not great wood for outdoor use. However, if you stain the cedar, it becomes very long lasting.
Ipe wood has one negative property where the ends can "check" over time. This means that small cracks show up in the end so the boards from the changes in moisture and expansion and contraction. These cracks are not a structural issue and it does not result in any splintering: it is just visually unsatisfying. Sealing the ends of Ipe would is the recommended course of action.
Frame Assembly
During assembly, I found a design flaw. The mortises were a little too close to the top ends of the legs. Since I made fairly tight fitting tenons, this resulted in some cracking and chipping at the top. A top ledge would be screwed down over these, so it would not be seem and it was not compromising the strength very much, so I decided to live with it.
Floor Assembly
I some smaller Ipe support frame for the floor bottom boards and those screwed into those support pieces.
Frame Finished
Top Edge Assembly
The top ledge pieces were designed to overhang the sides a little bit on the outside (but flush with walls on inside). A minor problem was in the back of the ledge where the trellis attached. I wanted the trellis attached to the frame, not the ledge, so the overhang was in the way. The solution was simple though: I just cut away the overhang of the ledge in the area the trellis would sit.
Trellis Attachment
Liner Installation
Having the wood of the planter in direct contact with soil is not going to be good for its longevity. I decided to add pond liner material to the inside. However, I also need a way for water to drain, so needs some holes. I used bulkhead fittings over the liner to prevent water going through the holes in the liner from seeping into the wood.
Completion
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